Springtime in Las Alpujarras

We had a light Winter this year, but Spring was still very welcomed here in Granada! D-Man and I made our way over to Las Alpujarras for a leisurely Sunday hike, and it was the perfect day. The almond trees have just begun to bloom, and the air is crisp enough throughout the day to enjoy a good hike at all hours.


The three main towns in Las Alpujarras – from lowest to highest in elevation – consist of Pampaneira, Bubión, and Capileira. We began our hike in Pampaneira, which is probably the prettiest and busiest of the three – with artisanal goods, clean river streams running through the middle of the village, and colorful rugs hung over its whitewashed walls.


We then made our way up to Bubión, which is my favorite village. With less than 400 inhabitants and beautiful hiking trails in all directions, it has a quiet peacefulness about it that I love.


The route is great for hiking as all three villages have sources of fresh mountain water readily available. So there are various tiled fountains, outdoor laundry baths, and water spouts found throughout.


This fountain from the first village, Pampaneira, boasts that whomever drinks its water with the intention of marrying, will have a bride. Funnily enough, D-Man drank from this fountain 4 years ago, a couple of months after we started dating…

“Never say you won’t drink from this water
this fountain you see
is the fountain of virtue.
And it is so grand
that upon drinking its water
– a devotee has confirmed –
whom drinks with the intention of marrying
won’t fail! In an instant,
he’ll have a bride, you’ll see!”


And then, our final destination: Capileira.


At the top!


In Capileira, we rewarded ourselves with a cold tubo, and indulged in an Alpujarras goat cheese to take home.

The trail between these three Alpujarras villages is one of my favorites, and I’d recommend it to anyone! There’s local beer and food along the way if you find yourself on the trail on a hot day, or if you don’t feel like bringing a prepared lunch. The trail to the top takes about an hour at a leisurely pace. There are also great lodges and rustic homes of all sizes for weekend getaways with friends, family, or just for couples.

Do you have a favorite local hike?


30 thoughts on “Springtime in Las Alpujarras

  1. Wow – that was fun! I think I could persuade Big Man to do that hike…it´s not too tough and the thoughts of beer and tapas would motivate him! The cheese looks good – at the moment I am trying to stuff cheese, chorizo and morcilla into my case without going over the 20kg limit ready for our trip to London tomorrow…

    • D-Man and I actually thought it would be much tougher (we prepared ourselves with a 2 litre water bottle each and were only planning on doing half the hike), but ended up being pleasantly surprised! I’ll admit, the beer and tapas were great motivators. ;)

      I wish I could bring all those awesome “embutidos” to the States! The airport security there won’t allow it at all. Don’t forget the liquid gold!

      • really? i thought it was a cheese cake! (cheese and cheese cake are totally two different things for me. i like cheese cake, but i dont like cheese. maybe cuz i never find the cheese i like yet, lol) take care, sis!

        • Ooh, I agree, cheeses can be so different! I wasn’t a huge fan of cheese either until I moved here. This one’s made from goat milk, so it has a fairly strong flavor, but it’s also soft because it hasn’t been cured very long, and is milder than other goat cheeses you find out there. Two of the most interesting cheeses I ever tried were: a creamy one made with pistachio, and another that was blended with pesto.

          I’m a huge cheesecake fan! With strawberries, mmmmm.

  2. Precioso hike, conocido como Ruta del Poqueira. El recorrido en general es mas largo pero para mi los tres pueblecitos encadenados (Pampaneira, Bubión y Capileira) me parece muy encantador.Además creo que es la mejor época para hacerlo, por el clima y la gran diversidad de colores del paisaje.

    Quiero repetir!

    • A mi tambien me parece muy encantador, guapo. Algun día nos quedaremos en unos de los pueblecillos y haremos el recorrido entero! Me encantaría verlo en invierno, cuando este lleno de nieve.

    • Hi, and welcome to both the blog and Spain! Yours looks like a fun read also – I always love reading fresh new perspectives on Spain, it’s nice remembering the new feeling us expats have when we first move out here. :)

    • I love the homes there, too! The flat roofs and rounded chimneys are said to be of Moorish influence, from when the Muslims inhabited Andalucía centuries ago. Some roofs are entirely covered in grass, with wild herbs and flowers – it’s beautiful.

  3. Amazing photos. I always wonder what its like to live in a village like Bubión. Like exactly what goes on behind those walls while the world turns. It thoroughly fascinates me.

    I need a drink from that fountain ;)

    • Me too! I wouldn’t mind living there when I’m older, I think it’d be a nice place to retire, or write a book.

      The water from the fountains is wonderfully cold and refreshing, even on hot days. :)

  4. So… on these days where you hike for about 30 hours… when do you eat? Do you bring lunch with you? I tap out at 2.5 hours of hiking. haha

    • The total hike (up to Capileira, and then all the way back down to Pampaneira) was a total of 2.5 hours! We ate when we got to the top, then made our way back down to Bubión where we had another tapa, and then settled at the bottom in Pampaneira for an actual meal. :) We really did do it at a lazy pace. Each town is only 30 minutes away by foot, so technically you could eat every 30 minutes if you wanted!

  5. I remember fresh water fountains near Lake garda as well. Of course, people were lined up with their liters of water bottles! So what spanish wine goes best with that wonderful cheese? wonderful photos as always! Its blooming here also, like a spring wonderland.

  6. Wow! Great post, Michi! The pictures are gorgeous too. Is that manchega cheese? I love that! I never like cheese with sheep milk but for the manchega I make an exception. I had it the first time in Montserrat and it was a love at first bite. ;-)

    • I love manchega cheese, too!! This one is “de las Alpujarras”, with goat’s milk. The strong taste in goat and sheep milk make for very strong cheeses, which might initially be too strong if we’re not used to eating such cured cheeses (I wasn’t!). I think sometimes strong cheeses might be an acquired taste, and then, indeed, it becomes love! :)

    • The white facades are very common here, it’s a beautiful color contrast I’ve always loved about Spain. Potted plants are also brought into the sun to bloom outside, and it makes for a gorgeous Springtime look.

  7. Thank you for taking everyone along on such a beautiful hike. The almond trees in bloom remind me of our apple orchard when it is blooming. I’m sure the fragrance was wonderful.

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